In recent years pins and needles have become disposable. We tend to discard them when they become a bit discoloured or rusty or if they have a slight burr on the tip, but this has not always been appropriate. Pins and needles were made by hand and were a valuable part of every woman's essential household equipment. She needed to be able to sharpen them and keep them shiny and in good condition. To do this she used a small fabric bag filled with emery powder.
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Reproduction of Assisi work emery from a nineteenth century Dutch workbox. |
Reproduction of early twentieth century cross stitch emery. |
Hand-painted silk heart shaped emery from the USA, date unknown. |
Late nineteenth century emery strawberry made by Alison's mother-in-law when she was a child. |
See page 14 (Inspirations #65) to create this emery scissor fob. |
Emery is a naturally occurring mineral. A mixture of carborundum and iron oxide or magnetite, it is an abrasive powder used in many polishing applications. It is mined in many countries, including the Greek Island of Naxos, and its main uses are industrial. It is available in a number of grain sizes and is dark grey or black in colour. It is particularly hard, having a Mohs hardness score of 8. Diamonds have the highest Mohs hardness score of 10.
So, because of its abrasive qualities, a little bag of emery powder was used to polish needles and pins. The needles were pushed through the decorative emery bag known simply as an 'emery'. They had to be passed right through from one side to the other, point first, and pulled through, so that any tiny rough burrs were pushed back parallel with the needle so they would not become a bother when the needle was used for its next sewing task. It was not correct to push a needle in and then pull it back in the reverse direction. The other advantage of using an emery was that the powder cleaned any skin oils from the needle, keeping it clean and shiny and, of course, rust-free. Women living close to the seashore often kept their needles and pins in emery to reduce rusting.
Decorative little containers were made from fabric, often embroidered, into which a small bag of emery powder was sewn. The traditional shape for an emery was a strawberry, but many different shapes have been used. Strawberries, embroidered or knitted, were often trimmed with glass beads for a decorative finish, or had a decorative silver cap and handmade cord trimming the top.
Most of the emeries that have survived in collections date from the early nineteenth century to the mid-twentieth century. Because they were a practical tool which was constantly in use, they tended to wear out and were replaced, making them a most collectable little tool.
