My five favourite hem finishes - Part Four
for smocking and heirloom sewing projects by Gail Doane

Number four on my list would be a contrast colour Madeira hem..
This hem treatment is best suited to 100% linen or lightweight tightly woven 100% cotton. Like a banded hem, a Madeira hem is permanent and cannot be dropped for growth. The width and scallop design of the coloured Madeira band is a design choice, but I would suggest a guideline of between 5 - 13cm (2 - 5"). The skirt should be cut to the finished length plus 12mm (1⁄2"). To apply the coloured Madeira band, place the right side of the contrast band to the wrong side of the skirt. Straight stitch the hemline using a 1cm (3⁄8") seam. Flip the contrast band into its finished position on the right side of the skirt and press, rolling the contrast band slightly to the wrong side of the hemline. Mark the chosen scalloped design along the top edge of the Madeira band. Machine stitch (1.5L) along this marked line. Cut out the scalloped edge allowing 3mm (1⁄8") seam allowance above the stitching line. Fold under the 3mm (1⁄8") seam allowance along the scallop line, clipping as necessary, and rolling the machine stitches slightly to the wrong side. Hand baste in place. Hand baste the finished scalloped edge in place on the right side of the skirt. Hand or machine pinstitch in place. I like to use a #80 or #100 denim needle and #80 thread for machine pinstitching. The denim needle is round with a very sharp point and punches a nice clean hole in the fabric. Madeira hems lend themselves nicely to surface embroidery embellishment above the scallop line.